Reproductive clinics

At the heart of our work is the health and well-being of animals. We choose to support and only collaborate on matings that align with our ethical values. This means that we do not support breeding for exaggerated features that could compromise an animal’s quality of life.

We prioritise working with health-tested, physically sound dogs to help ensure the best possible outcomes for future generations. 

In breeds that are known to face particular health challenges – such as brachycephalic (flat-faced) breeds – we are especially committed to partnering with responsible breeders who share our goal of improving breed health and wellbeing.

Our mission is to promote thoughtful, welfare-focused breeding practices and to support breeders who are striving to create a healthier future for their animals.

Artificial insemination (AI) and Transcervical insemination (TCI) are assisted ways bitches can get pregnant without a natural mating. 

We can use fresh or frozen semen, which is then deposited near or through the cervix. This can help with fertility problems, allow storage and use of semen from historic collections and shipping of semen from all around the world to be used on your bitch.

What is the difference?

AI is when semen is deposited into the vagina close to the cervix. 

Transcervical insemination involves the use of an endoscope passed into the vagina to assist a catheter being passed through the cervix, so that the semen can be deposited directly into the uterus. 

This is a better option for frozen semen, but can also be done with fresh and side-by-side insemination. 

Usually only one TCI session is needed, but timing is more crucial than with AI or natural mating. Specific progesterone testing will need to be done to ensure the bitch is inseminated at the correct time.

It’s best to plan ahead and not wait until your bitch is in season to look into this, so please contact us to discuss your options, especially if you are thinking of importing semen.

As responsible breeders, we want to make sure that we are passing on the best genetic potential to the offspring. 

By screening for certain inherited diseases, we can make informed decisions about our matings and help to prevent disease and suffering for the next generation. 

Find out recommended health testing for your breed using The Kennel Clubs online health standard list.

We offer a range of health testing, including but not limited to:

• BVA hip scoring scheme.
• BVA Elbow scoring Scheme.
• KC Respiratory function grading scheme.
• Bloods or swabs for genetic testing.

We now offer stud dog semen collection and storage for an annual fee. 

This allows for valuable studs to be kept for future matings, even after the original sire has passed. It also allows for shipping across the world.

We can also import semen from studs elsewhere in the world to be used to inseminate your bitch, to save time and money travelling to the stud. 

This process is now even easier with our network of reproductive vets. All semen collections include a pre and post thaw analysis and report.

For international shipping, there can be many import and export rules and regulations (depending on the location), so timing is critical. It’s important to plan ahead in case your stud needs certain health screenings and documentation prior to exporting their germinal (reproductive) products.

Even with the best breeding practices, things can go wrong. Problems with conception, pregnancy or fading puppies can be frustrating and upsetting for all involved. 

We provide a consultation service where we can help identify where potential underlying causes to these problems lie, what testing might be useful and, more importantly, what we can do to overcome these issues. 

Please call us to book a consultation to discuss your individual case. 

Infertility (male)

Male fertility issues in dogs can stem from a variety of causes, including hormonal imbalances, genetic conditions, infections, injuries or age-related decline. 

Common signs of reduced fertility include low sperm count, poor sperm motility, abnormal sperm morphology or a complete lack of sperm (azoospermia).

Environmental factors such as stress, poor nutrition and exposure to toxins can also negatively impact reproductive health. 

Early detection through veterinary evaluation and semen analysis is key to diagnosing the underlying cause and determining whether medical treatment, management changes or assisted reproductive techniques may be helpful.

Infertility (female)

Female fertility issues in dogs can arise from a range of factors, including hormonal imbalances, reproductive tract abnormalities, infections and underlying health conditions. 

Common challenges include irregular or absent heat cycles, failure to conceive despite mating, early pregnancy loss or difficulty carrying a litter to term. 

Conditions such as uterine infections (e.g. pyometra), cystic ovaries or congenital abnormalities can significantly impact fertility. 

Age can also play a role, with fertility often declining in older bitches. Environmental stress, poor nutrition, and inadequate timing of mating can further reduce the chances of successful breeding. 

Identifying fertility problems early through veterinary examination and assessment, hormone testing and reproductive imaging can help guide treatment options and improve the likelihood of a successful pregnancy.

Pain during or associated with mating can significantly affect a dog’s ability to conceive. 

If a dog experiences discomfort due to physical issues such as vaginal or pelvic abnormalities, vaginal strictures, prepuce issues, previous injury, infection or underlying conditions like vaginitis or back pain, then they may resist mating or display anxiety and stress during the process. 

This physical and emotional stress can interfere with the normal hormonal responses required for successful ovulation, fertilization and implantation. 

In some cases, negative associations with mating may lead to behavioural aversion, making future attempts more difficult. 

Identifying and addressing the source of pain through a thorough veterinary assessment is crucial to improving the dog’s comfort, cooperation during breeding and overall reproductive success. 

In those that are adverse to natural mating, assisted mating such as AI or TCI may be an option.

Prostate problems are common in male dogs, especially as they age, and can significantly impact both mating ability and fertility. 

The most frequent condition is benign prostatic hyperplasia (BPH), a non-cancerous enlargement of the prostate that can cause discomfort, difficulty ejaculating and reduced semen quality. 

Other issues such as prostatitis (inflammation or infection of the prostate), prostatic cysts or even cancer can also interfere with normal reproductive function. 

These conditions may lead to pain during mating, decreased libido, poor sperm motility or abnormal semen. 

In some cases, dogs may refuse to mate altogether due to discomfort. Diagnosis typically involves a physical exam, imaging (such as ultrasound) and semen analysis. 

Early detection and appropriate treatment are essential for managing symptoms and preserving fertility when possible.

Canine herpesvirus (CHV-1) is a contagious viral infection that poses a serious risk in breeding dogs, particularly pregnant bitches and neonatal puppies. 

In adult dogs, CHV-1 often causes mild or unnoticed symptoms, such as respiratory signs, vaginal discharge, or small vesicular lesions on the genital tract. 

However, in pregnant bitches, the virus can cause infertility, abortion, stillbirths, or fading puppy syndrome, where affected puppies may die within days of birth. 

Diagnosis is typically confirmed through PCR testing or virus isolation from vaginal swabs, placental tissues or deceased puppies. 

There is no specific cure for CHV-1, but supportive care, strict hygiene and temperature-controlled environments (above 38°C/100°F) for neonates can reduce mortality. 

To manage the condition, breeders should minimise stress, avoid contact with unknown dogs and isolate pregnant bitches from potential carriers. We offer advice on cases through in-person consultations.

We offer a range of services including pregnancy diagnosis, help with dystocia and emergency caesarean sections. We can also help with puppies that are not thriving or unwell.

A typical cat pregnancy lasts around 63 to 65 days. Early signs can be subtle, but you may notice changes such as increased affection, pinkening and enlargement of the nipples (known as “pinking up”) around three weeks in, and a growing abdomen from about week five. 

A vet can confirm pregnancy via ultrasound from around day 21, and this is often the best time to check viability; a follow-up scan or x-ray after day 45 can help estimate the litter size. 

During the first five to six weeks, continue feeding a balanced adult cat food. From week six onward, gradually transition her to a high-quality kitten food to meet the increased energy and nutrient demands of pregnancy and nursing. 

Feed smaller, more frequent meals as her belly expands and keep her indoors during the final weeks to prevent stress or accidental early delivery. 

Worming is important – use a product safe for pregnant cats and repeat as advised by your vet, usually around day 40 and again near term, to reduce the risk of passing parasites to the kittens. 

Regular vet checks and a quiet, comfortable environment will help ensure a smooth pregnancy and healthy litter.

A normal canine pregnancy lasts around 63 days from mating, though it can range from 58 to 68 days. 

Early on, you may notice subtle signs such as increased affection, mild appetite changes or slight nipple enlargement. 

An ultrasound scan can be done from around day 28 to confirm pregnancy and assess fetal health, while a follow-up scan or x-ray after day 45 can help estimate the litter size. 

During the first six weeks, continue feeding her a high-quality, balanced adult diet. 

From week six onward, gradually switch to a high-calorie puppy food to support fetal growth and prepare for lactation. 

Divide meals into smaller, more frequent portions as her abdomen enlarges. It’s important to maintain a safe, moderate level of exercise – no intense activity, but avoid letting her become overweight. 

Worming is crucial: she should be wormed with a product safe for pregnancy such as fenbendazole around day 40 and continue until two days post whelping to help protect both her and the puppies from roundworm transmission. 

Always consult your vet for tailored advice and to ensure that everything is progressing normally.

When a cat goes into labour, it usually progresses through three main stages. 

In the first stage, which can last up to 24 hours, the queen (female cat) may become restless, vocalize more, groom excessively and seek a quiet place to nest. 

During the second stage, active labour begins as the uterus contracts to deliver the kittens – each kitten is typically born within 30 to 60 minutes, and the mother will often rest briefly between births. 

The third stage involves passing the placentas, usually shortly after each kitten. 

Owners should contact a vet if their cat is straining for more than 30 minutes without producing a kitten, if more than two hours pass between kittens, if there is foul-smelling or green discharge without a kitten being born or if the queen seems unusually weak, distressed or in pain. 

It’s always better to call for advice if something doesn’t seem right.

When a dog goes into labour, it typically occurs in three stages. 

In the first stage, which can last 6 to 12 hours (sometimes up to 24), she may become restless, pant, dig at bedding, refuse food and seek out a quiet place – these are signs that her body is preparing for delivery. 

In the second stage, active labour begins and puppies are delivered. 

Each puppy is usually born within 20 to 60 minutes, though it’s normal for the mother to rest up to two hours between pups. 

During the third stage, the placenta is passed, often shortly after each puppy. 

Owners should contact a vet if their dog is straining hard for over 30 minutes without producing a puppy, if more than two hours pass between puppies, if there’s a green or foul-smelling discharge without a puppy being born or if the mother appears in distress, unusually tired, or unresponsive.

If in doubt, it’s safest to call your vet for guidance.

Newborn kittens are delicate and require close monitoring, especially in the first few weeks. 

They are born blind, deaf, and unable to regulate their own body temperature, so they must be kept warm – ideally in a quiet, draft-free area at around 30–32°C during the first week, gradually reducing to 24°C by week four. 

Ensure they are nursing regularly (every two to three hours initially) and gaining weight daily; healthy kittens should roughly double their birth weight in the first week. 

If the mother is unable to care for them, bottle feeding with a kitten milk replacer every two to three hours is essential. 

Stimulate them to urinate and defecate after each feed by gently rubbing their genital area with a damp cloth. 

Eyes usually open between seven to 14 days. Kittens should be kept with their mother and littermates until they are at least eight weeks of age (preferably 12) to support healthy development. 

Routine worming should begin at two to three weeks of age and be repeated every two weeks until they are eight weeks old. 

Watch out for signs of illness such as weakness, weight loss or failure to nurse, and seek veterinary help promptly if concerned.

Newborn puppies are born blind, deaf and unable to regulate their body temperature, so keeping them warm is essential. 

The whelping area should be kept at 29 to 32°C during the first week, gradually decreasing to about 24°C by week four. 

Puppies should nurse every two to three hours and begin gaining weight steadily, doubling their birth weight by around seven to 10 days. 

If the mother can’t nurse or care for them, bottle feeding with a canine milk replacer every two to three hours is crucial, along with gentle stimulation of the genital area to encourage toileting after each feed. 

Their eyes and ears begin to open around 10 to 14 days, and they’ll start becoming more mobile around three weeks. 

Begin worming from two weeks of age, then repeat every two weeks until they are eight weeks old. 

Puppies should remain with their mother and littermates until at least eight weeks old to ensure proper physical and behavioural development. 

Monitor closely for signs of illness like poor weight gain, lethargy, or constant crying, and contact your vet if you’re concerned.